Warike
How well-versed are you in Sydney’s Peruvian food scene? If you’re unfamiliar with Peruvian food like me come along for a Peruvian foodie adventure in the heart of Surry Hills. Warike is a vibey Peruvian restaurant on Devonshire Street and its name translates into a hidden restaurant for diners to enjoy delicious food. Let’s see if the food lives up to its name!
Warike started as a pop up two years ago and since then it’s become so popular that the owner has been able to open a permanent restaurant in the heart of Surry Hills, I stumbled across this restaurant from a random conversation with a work friend when discussing Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine. As much as I love fusion cuisine I also adore traditional cuisine that pays homage to its roots - the decor as soon as you walk into Warike screams Peru! From the multi-coloured tapestry on the wall to the funky cushions, I already had a great feeling about the food before opening the menu.
Ceviche Carretillero
Ceviche Carretillero (GF,DF) $34
Upon seeing this dish on a food blogger’s TikTok I was immediately intrigued - ceviche with deep-fried calamari rings? Sign me up! This dish is full of flavour with the fish of the day served in Rocoto tiger’s milk, white corn, and chullpi corn, topped with golden and crispy calamari rings. The highlight was the contrast between that creamy kingfish and crunchy calamari rings but a ceviche would be nothing without the sauce - “tiger’s milk” or Leche de Tigre is usually made with lime juice, sliced onion, chilies with salt and pepper to marinate with the fish’s natural juices. This was zingy and yummy - a must-try from the raw section.
Aji De Gallina Roll
Aji De Gallina Roll, $12
This dish looks deceptively simple, you may be mistaken for thinking it’s just a Peruvian spring roll. However, this roll is stuffed with diced chicken, and marinated in Peruvian chilli curry-style sauce with cheese and milk which elevates the umami and depth of flavour with the complex spices. I enjoyed the texture of the chicken when mixed with the curry and cheese which gave the filling an overarching warmth that goes to your soul. Fun fact - these were actually taken off the menu for some time however due to popular demand they are back on the menu.
Pulpo Anticuchero
Pulpo Anticuchero (GF,DF), $40
Every culture has its take on octopus and in Peruvian cuisine, it seems charcoal grilled octopus is the way to go - these are Western Australian octopus hands which are chargrilled in a house-made Peruvian spices marinade served with cauliflower puree and olive sauce. One word to describe this dish: “saucy” - the octopus is already marinated in spices before grilling and there are two dips to choose from, my favourite was the cauliflower puree as the mild and creamy flavours counteracted the spicy zing of the octopus perfectly. This was another standout dish - I only wish there were more of the octopus to soak up the puree/sauces.
Papas A La Huancaina
Papas A La Huancaina, $12
If you thought I would leave a restaurant without trying the carbs on their menu then you thought wrong - I decided to try these roasted potatoes over rice because they sounded a lot more exciting than the rice. These roasted potatoes are served with yellow chilli Peruvian sauce, cheese and milk, shaved parmesan, and dried olives. The recurring theme of cheese and chilli sauce makes its appearance with a bang - the sauce enhances the oomph and umami of the potatoes. Yes, the potatoes were roasted to perfection however without the spicy and cheesy dressing it would have just been a bland side dish. Well done Warike - you have truly impressed me with the sides.
Overall rating: 9/10
Warike combines the homey feel of your grandma’s Peruvian food with a stylish restaurant setting that serves complex and delicious dishes which showcase the umami flavour explosion and love of spices in Peruvian cuisine. I loved all the dishes and my only complaint would be “more please” (especially with that octopus). If you are looking for the next girl’s lunch, date spot, or celebration venue please consider Warike - the cherry on top is that the staff are lovely and friendly plus you are offered a free glass of wine or beer on your next visit so you can sip on that whilst trying more items from the menu. Thank you for the amazing dining experience Warike - I’ll be back!
